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' rsHo'BQ- No; 354,968. Patented D80. 28, 1888.

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SHOE.

No. 354,968. Patented Dec. 28, 1886.

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N. PETERS Phmumgmpner. wmingron. n. c.

UNITED STATES VPATENT Ormes.. f

AUGUSTUS T. CUSHING, OF WEYMOUTH, MASSACHUSETTS.

SHOE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 354,968, dated December 28, 1886. i

.T0 @ZZ whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, AUciUsTusg T. CUsrrrNe,

I of Weymouth, in the county of Norfolk and State of Massachusetts, a citizen of the United States, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Shoes, of which the following is a specification. n

My presentinvention relates to improvements in the construction of that class of shoes which are closed at the front and provided with elastic or expansible gores. Of this class of shoes the well-known Congress gaiter is a t 7pe.

3The object of my invention is to improve the comfort, neat appearance, and durability, and to reduce the cost of such shoes.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 is a side view of the shoe; Fig. 2, a-vertical longitudinal section of the same; Fig. 3, a vertical section on the line a: x of Fig. l, and Fig. 4 a horizontal section on the line y y of Fig. l. The shoe is shown as ready to be lasted, the heel-stiffening, however, having to be first put in place in the ordinary manner.

A represents the back piece of the shoe. This, it will be observed, is made of onepiece of leather, or seamless at the back or where it coines in contact with the heel of the wearer. This back piece, A, is crimped into shape, and is further held and retained in shape by means of the lining B. This lining I form of two parts, each part being formed to correspond, except in the particular hereinafter speciiied, with one-half of theback piece, A, of the shoe, and the two parts being seamed together vertically at the back of theshoe. These two parts are seamed together through and throughthat is to say, the two parts of the heelflining being laid one upon the other, they are sewed together through and through in a line close to their edge-so that when opened out into the form they are to take in the shoe the seamed edges will hug the back of the shoe at the top, and, also, so that they will bear against the back of the shoe, and ynot against the heel of the wearer. It is cut at the upper part so as to substantially match the contour of the back of the shoe; but from a point at about the top of the counteror stiffener it falls away from the back of the shoe, so as to leave a pocket for the counter or stiffener. By this construction I am enabled to preserfe t-he form of the shoe at the back without the use of any stay strips or seamsto make a projection on the interior of the shoe with the danger of causing annoyance to the wearer.

The front of the shoe C, I form of a single piece of leather'y crimped to the proper shape, as shown, and where the front and rear parts of the shoe join I provide a saddle or inverted- Y-shaped brace, D, which not only tends to re-enforce the junction, but also to holdup the front of the shoe in shape. The form of this brace-pieceD is best shown in Figs. 2, 3, 'and 4 of the drawings. At its upper end it extends substantially around the front of the shoe, but a little below this it forks, as shown in Figs. 2

and 3, and consists of two pieces of uniform shape eitending downwardly to the bottom of the shoe on either side, the rear edge of each piece being substantially over the side seam of the shoe. I have also represented the usual interlining for the front of the shoe, as shown.

A shoe of the class above mentioned, of which the Congress gaiter is a type, when made of calf-skin which has beenl dressed in oil, would, if constructed in the ordinary way, with an elastic-webbing gore, E, bring the oiled calf-skin in contact with the cut edges of the gore, thereby exposing the rubber to the inj urious action of the oil. To prevent this I have provided an oilexcluding strip, a, which I form preferably' of leather made oilproof, and lay over the front and back portions of the shoe where they abut upon the out edges of the elastic gore. make wide enough, as shown, to overlap all that part of the gore that would otherwise come in contact with the leather, and the outside edge of the oil-excluding strip may be turned over and sewed to the front or back of the shoe, thus forming a neat finish, as shown. A similar finish may, if desired, be put at the lower part of the gore, although as the leather of the shoe does not at this point run across This oil-excluder I prefer to i the cut edge of the gore, the latter is not liavble to beinjured by the oil from the stock.

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shoe made of one piece of leather and crimped to shape, of the saddle-shaped stay D.

k2. In a shoe of the class above mentioned, having an elastic gore and the adjacent por- 5 tion of the shoe formed of oil-dressed leather',` the combination, with the said gore and the said adjacent leathei` portion of the shoe, of an oil-proof strip interposed between them, whereby the oi1-dressing of the leather is prevented from coming in contact with the elastic goring.

3. In ashoe of the class above mentioned,the combination of the back A, the whole front C, the lining B, and the stay-strip D, all sub- I 5 stantially as set forth.

4. In a shoe of the class above mentioned, the combination, with a Whole back, A, a whole front, C, and an elastic gore, of an oil-excluding strip, a, all substantially as Nand for the purpose set forth.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto subscribed my name this 20th day of February, A. D. 1886.

AUGUSTUS T. oUsHING.

Vitnesses:

E. B. ToMLINsoN, J. HENRY TAYLOR. 

